Editor's Choice - Our recommendations for 2023

Even though December in Denmark is synonymous with roast pork, caramelized potatoes and risalamande, I still have to stop by Ambra in Store Kongensgade for a delicious traditional Italian meal. The ambition at Ambra is that a restaurant experience should be affordable - without compromising on quality or quantity. Their cheapest pasta dish costs DKK 85, and otherwise the menu offers other delicious classic Italian dishes such as carbonara, vitello tonnato and freshly baked foccacia.

The old VisitCarlsberg has been closed for a long time due to modernization, but on December 1st they will finally open the new and beautiful "Home of Carlsberg". Home of Carlsberg is more than just a museum. It is an interactive experience and attraction where the history of the Carlsberg empire is told in a captivating way. I can promise you that all your senses will be brought to life. You can see, hear, smell and taste the history, not only in the exhibition, but also through the many other experiences that awaits you in Home Of Carlsberg.

To get inspiration for this year's upcoming Christmas tables, I stop by Royal Copenhagen's Christmas tables, which in 2023 will celebrate its 60th anniversary. Over the past 60 years, countless Danish celebrities have been invited to set Christmas tables that reflect each individual's personal traditions and stories. The Christmas tables are being exhibited in the historic setting of Royal Copenhagen's Flagship Store at Amagertorv 6 in Copenhagen from Saturday, November 18 to December 31, 2023.

A place I've already visited, but that I MUST visit again in December is Københavns Bageri, and have a piece of their Christmas "kringle" - again. It's no coincidence that they were named bakery of the year in 2023, because wow, their Christmas kringle is good. Crispy, sweet, and an explosion of Christmas flavor. Many Copenhagen bakeries make their own Christmas treats every year, and we've made a guide with some of our favorite bakeries in Copenhagen that we'll definitely be stopping by to taste their Christmas pastries.

For the first time, Kontiki Bar opens up for the winter and has transformed their entire upper deck into the finest Christmas market. The Christmas market consists of a 90% home-made products and is open every weekend until Christmas Eve. Jule Vera Market will be taking place on December 2nd and 3rd in Nordhavn, with a focus on sustainability. There will be vintage pop-ups, upcycling and redesign talents and other creative minds who create their product out of something that already exists. You can read more about Vera's Market here.

If you are looking for inspiration to think outside of the box, then the exhibition "The Future is Present" at Designmuseum Denmark is the place to go. The exhibition adresses the global issues that loom as shadows over our future; the climate crises, refugee flows, surveillance and pandemics. Artists and designers showcase their ability to shape solutions that will characterise our world in 10 or 20 years. The question is, what will define good design in the future?

As the sun sets early over Copenhagen, I head to Nikolaj Kunsthal in the heart of the city. There's something speciel going on in the Upper Gallery these days. A sensuous and colourful universe unfolds before my eyes, and the space is populated by large, soft sculptures. Have you ever wondered what your true self would look like if you dared to drop all your defence mechanisms and just be yourself? This is the intriguing state that artist Shane Brox explores with his works in the breathtaking exhibition: Beauty in the Beast.

I live in the centre of a city bubbling with different cultures and flavours, yet I always return to the comfort and solid meals at Piola Pastificio. The couple Johanne Ramskov Erichsen and Antonio Errico (formerly Mangia), are expertd in handmade ravioli and shredded linguine, and I look forward to the steady stream of dishes served at the pavement tables, where I sit until my hands freeze from the cold, then head inside to finish off with amara. 

I make my way to my favourite oasis, The Glyptotek, and find my permanent place on the bench between the palm trees in the atmospheric Winter Garden. Nature is a big topic at the museum these days, where the newly opened exhibition: "After Nature" highlights nature in both architecture and the collection at the museum. The women behind the exhibitions is award-winning author Josefine Klougart. Her written words go into dialog with the museum and delve into human's relationship with nature as seen through the prism of art.

Carlsbergbyen is a new, but historically old, neighbourhood on the outskirts of Vesterbro. Carlsberg's beer was brewed in the area from 1847-2008. You have probably heard a little bird sing that Home Of Carlsberg will once again open its doors in 1 of December, telling the story of what Carlsberg was, is and always will be. Here you can experience an interactive exhibition, hang out in the brewery yard over a beer, and visit the brewery horses in the stables. That's some good reasons to visit the neighbourhood once, twice or three times.

Some mornings (every morning), starting with a good cup of coffee is just the right thing to do. Orsa Coffee opened not too long ago on Vesterbrogade. The coffee beans are supplied by the talented folks at Prolog, so the groundwork has already been laid for a great experience. But it doesn't stop there. The people behind the coffee machines are said to know their stuff, and I'll be stopping by to experience that for myself.

I'm slightly fascinated by the world of Japan, and that includes the food. If you're into Izakaya like me, Kona in Carlsbergbyen is worth a visit. Japanese savouries, cocktails, great atmosphere and reminders of a visit to the land of the rising sun.
If you're more into ramen, Slurp Ramen is located downstairs. It's bright, delicious and definitely quieter than Osaka's Dotonbori area. It's quiet enough to let your taste buds do most of the work. I might have to visit twice: Once for Izakaya and once for ramen.

In my world, there is no better way to get around Copenhagen than on two wheels, aka a bike. I love biking around the city so much that I have three different bikes to do it on. 
On a hopefully crisp autumn day, I will hop on one of them and take the BIG architecture tour. There's plenty to take in: The social housing at Dortheavej, Urban Rigger on Refshaleøen, CopenHill, Bjerget, 8-Tallet and all the rest. You could say a lot of things, but there's no arguing that Bjarke Ingels has left his mark on Copenhagen.

An autumn classic is of course a stroll in Dyrehaven. I probably won't be strolling around up there all alone, because there are usually others who get the same idea, but the arrow points to hygge when Copenhageners greet each other on the forest paths. In October, you can also cheer on the brave runners in the traditional Hermitage Run. There's always a good atmosphere when the approximately 21,000 runners embark on the 13-kilometre route. The mood can be less good when the stags start fighting. It's impressive, but keep your distance.

At GL STRAND, they currently have an exhibition by Tobias Rehberger that I would like to experience. It's called Through the back side of my eyes. I always like going to the art centre, and this press photo spoke directly to me. I just want to experience standing in that space.I am in no way trying to be an expert on this Rehberger's art, but I sense humour and an immediacy that I often like when encountering art. And I hope that I find a deeper layer along the way. Otherwise I'll have to take a sneak peek at the programme.

BMO is an abbreviation for "bolle med ost" which means bun with cheese. There is a BMO epidemic in Copenhagen, and a very sound contestant is Ebert's cafe in Amager. As well as being a cafe, Ebert's is also a vintage shop, a vinyl store, a toy shop, a wine shop and a place to buy superhero figurines. There's simply something for everyone here. I love visiting the place and browsing through all the fun shelves, running my fingers through old vinyl and taking in the atmosphere.

In a pulsating city life, it's all about finding places where you can forget about time and stress. The ultimate best place for me is AIRE Ancient Baths in Carlsberg Byen, a spa-inspired by traditional Roman, Greek and Ottoman civilisations. Arriving at AIRE is like arriving in a whole other world, where the only thing you have to consider is which thermal bath you want. There's everything from a hot pool to a salt pool, to a jet pool and much more. It is also possible to purchase refreshments that can be enjoyed on heated marble stones or different types of wellness experiences and massages.  Their Ancient Argan Massage is the ultimate experience for me, and one I dream back to daily.

The Globe Irish Pub feels like, for Irish people, home. The entire pub is built from materials from an old church in Ireland; the food is authentic Irish (I'm particularly fond of their Irish stew), and the drinks are carefully selected from all corners of the world. I dare to put my head on the block and say that the Globe has the best Guinness in Copenhagen.  There's a selection of events in there, such as the famous pub quiz they hold every second Thursday, live music, big sporting events, St Patrick's Day and much more. The atmosphere reaches biblical heights at sporting events, especially when it comes to rugby, football, GAA (Irish football) and hurling. If you just want to sit back and relax without the hustle and bustle, the pub has plenty of nooks and crannies.

Where better to wind down than at a museum? Located on Refshaleøen in the old B&W halls, the museum is a contemporary art museum. Here, you can experience installations, performance art and monumental video works that force you to consider the world around you in new and exciting ways. They collaborate with different partners from different continents and cultures, as well as locally, so there's something for everyone. If you need a refreshment before, during or after your museum visit, the museum's café, Connie Connie, is well worth a visit. 

Even if you feel like you know Copenhagen, it’s a historic city that never runs out of stories. If you don’t necessarily want to take a walk with a guide, you can download StoryHunt on your phone for free, which is a digital guided tour through the city centre. The app guides you to different places and tells stories about Copenhagen along the way.

This summer’s vacation reading for me was “The African Farm” by Karen Blixen. To round off the reading experience, I’m headed to the Karen Blixen Museum, Rungstedlund. The world-famous Danish author was born at Rungstedlund, where she lived her entire life, except for the 17 years she spent on her coffee farm in Kenya. During the summer, Rungstedlund hosts a wide range of exciting events. You can experience special guided tours, immerse yourself in exciting nature experiences in Blixen's wonderful garden, or enjoy a refreshment in the café.

Next to the bakery and pizza bar Flere Fugle on Rentemestervej is the wine bar Fire Tyve. It’s the cosiest little wine bar with an informal and low-key vibe, but its wines are top quality. The menu changes often, so you can be sure to expand your wine horizons occasionally. They also serve small delicious dishes such as charcuterie or fresh oysters. The hip backyard vibe, with string lights and table and bench sets, sets the perfect mood and makes you want to spend all the last bright summer evenings right there.

Another great reason to visit the Northwest is Grundtvig's Church. The church is built in memory of the great Danish pastor, poet and reformer N.F.S. Grundtvig. You don't have to be religious to be captivated by this spectacular piece of architecture. The symmetrical lines shine through the architecture and it's clear to see the attention to detail. There are many beautiful, historic churches in Denmark, but Grundtvig's Church is something special

We celebrate summer in Copenhagen with lots music, and there have already been countless great music events such as the Jazz Festival, Syd For Solen, and Fredags Rock in Tivoli to name a few. UHØRT is a three-day festival that focuses on new, upcoming artists on the Danish music scene. It's a great concept that gives you the opportunity to expand your musical horizons and maybe find a new, unknown favorite artist. Although the festival takes place over three days, you can also buy tickets for just one day. Tickets are available at UHØRT.dk.

One place I will be visiting more in August is Vital Foods at Kompagnistræde 41. They make plant-based, casual food that is both healthy and really delicious. Their mission is to dispel the myth that plant-based food is for the few and make it easy and accessible. Vital Foods specializes in breakfast and lunch, and the menu includes porridge, burritos, sandwiches and juices.You can really feel that they are passionate about what they do, and they are really nice to guide and explain if you, like me, are new to the plant-based game.

I think we can all agree that one of the coolest things about Copenhagen is that we can jump in the harbour and cool off in the summer heat. A large part of my July will therefore be spent at one of Copenhagen's harbour baths. Havneviken's harbour bathing zone on Amager is one of the more unique bathing destinations in Copenhagen. Here, next to the enclosed bathing zone, an artificial beach has been constructed, giving a true summer holiday beach vibe right in the middle of Copenhagen.

Copenhagen's Nordvest district has become one of the city's hippest neighbourhoods - and for good reason. The bar AUTOPOUL, with its relaxed atmosphere, quickly became a popular hang-out spot for Copenhageners when it opened last year. AUTOPOUL produces and sells their own cider in addition to their selection of delicious natural wine, local beers, cheap coffee and snacks. I think AUTOPOUL should be the perfect afternoon sunspot to enjoy a cold glass of cider and I have big plans to visit during the summer.

In celebration of Copenhagen being the World Capital of Architecture in 2023, Copenhageners in July can either enjoy a unique cycling experience through a car-free Copenhagen or run through cultural institutions that are normally closed to runners. Perfect for those of us who sometimes find cycling through central Copenhagen more hectic than cosy.

If there's one thing I love about summer in Copenhagen, it's that restaurants and cafés (to the extent that it's possible in the Danish summer weather?) move their dining outside. This month, I'm looking forward to settling in on the bench seating at Omar restaurant. A hidden gem on the otherwise unknown Refnæsgade in Nørrebro, Omar serves ambitious food, good wine and simple drinks at reasonable prices while the sound of RnB and hip hop music blares from the speakers.

One of the highlights of the summer for me is that Pumpehuset's Byhave is open. The City Garden is a true little oasis in the middle of Copenhagen, and with its beautiful trees, colourful lights and great atmosphere, it's the perfect place to enjoy Copenhagen's long summer evenings and cold beers. Pumpehuset's Byhave offers free live music from upcoming musicians and is therefore a great opportunity to discover new music while socialising with friends.

Depanneur is many things, and a very special concept in Copenhagen. Depanneur is the local grocery store, bar, cafe, small eatery and a hang-out spot for locals. Whether you just need a quick coffee or want to stay a little longer and grab a bite to eat, they've got you covered. Depanneur, by the way, is the word used for a grocery store in Quebec Canada and aims to be there when you need it.

The first dip in the harbour is always a bit scary, but I haven't been in since last summer and I'm not quite sure how cold the water really is. But I think you're pretty safe in June, the water may still be on the cold side, but the weather is warm.

It's finally that time of year again where I can share one of my favourite guides; the great Copenhagen ice cream guide! Because what goes better with warm weather and swimming in the harbour than a cold and refreshing ice cream? There are quite a few different places to choose from when it comes to good ice cream in Copenhagen, no matter what neighbourhood you're in, there's a good ice cream parlour. One place I never miss visiting in the summer is Ismageriet on Amager. They are always good at experimenting with different flavours and combinations.

Palazzo Diner is a brand new restaurant in Copenhagen that is heavily inspired by classic American diners, with all the amenities like delicious burgers, coffee refills, Bloody Marys and of course their all-day breakfeast every Sunday.  You'll feel like you're in the middle of a Hollywood film.

This year marks the anniversary of one of Copenhagen's biggest parties. Distortion has been bringing life and celebration to the streets of Copenhagen every summer for 25 years now. However, the festival has changed a lot over the past 25 years, with the party moving further away from the streets and more into specific areas. The Vesterbro street party is still here, though, in classic Distortion style as it has always been. The street party mentality is also still there in all the events you can experience during Distortion week.

It will be a stop at Copenhagen Contemporary from around May 12 and from then onward, because that's where the new exhibition Yet, it Moves! is running. The exhibition is described as a spectacular meeting between art and science and is an investigation of the universe's only constant; movement.

There's something about early mornings and calm water that just brings acute happiness and peace of mind. Therefore, the plan is to let the alarm clock wake me up early and take a trip to Amager Strandpark before work calls. It will probably be a trip on SUP, but can just as well be a stroll along the beach. If you're into SUP or maybe even kayaking, the Kayak Hotel has your back. They have everything you need, and you can book it in advance so you don't miss out.

Volatil is located on Sdr. Boulevard. A grape shop, as they call themselves, but it is actually bottled wine that is sold over the counter, just to be clear. The range is wide, delicious and carefully selected. Volatil imports some of the wines itself from small, friendly winegrowers, and you are guaranteed to get a few words about the origin of the wine.

The last recommendation is to take a stroll around the VEGA venue for a musical and architectural experience. I have been to VEGA many times, and of course it has always been the music that has drawn me in. But I've also always really liked the beautiful wooden panels. The architect Vilhelm Lauritzen designed VEGA, the old Folkets Hus, and he didn't stop at the big lines. Vilhelm was very much involved in every detail, from the aforementioned wooden panels to door handles and sockets.

A new gastronomic revolution is sweeping Copenhagen, with several of Copenhagen's most talented chefs opening restaurants based on the techniques and traditions of Japanese, Korean and Chinese cuisine. I'm a regular at the popular Slurp Ramen in Nansensgade, where the ramen king of them all, former noma chef Philipp Inreiter, rules with a firm hand and tonnes of experience. But slurping up delicious ramen isn't the only Asian must-eat in 2023. The relatively newly opened Kappo Andō, Et Cetera, Gaijin, Goldfinch and Juju are all high on my list.

The art world awakens in spring as the trees sprout new green leaves. I extend my encounter with Japan and trudge towards the historic cultural centre of Copenhagen, Kunsthal GL STRAND, where Japanese artist Tabaimo exhibits his hand-drawn animations inspired by Japanese woodblock prints, ukiyo-e, manga and anime. But that's far from the only exhibition you can look forward to this spring. Cisternerne has just opened an exhibition by Korean artist Kimsooja, and the National Gallery of Denmark (SMK) has opened a major new exhibition by artist Carl Bloch.

Am I the only one who hasn't let go of the fishing rod after the lockdown? What started as a mere pastime has evolved into a competitive occupation. I love the early morning hours in Nordhavn, where I stand and blend in (not) between the elite fishermen along the quay and get help when my fishing line gets stuck. If you don't have the equipment but would still like to try your hand at fishing, hot coffee on the thermos and cold cheeks, you can borrow the gear off the street at Jans Lystfiskershop in Østerbro.

So Danish! is the first permanent exhibition at the Danish Architecture Centre (DAC). The exhibition tells the story of Danish architecture from the Viking Age to the present day, focusing on both the iconic masterpieces and the lesser-known buildings that have helped shape the Denmark we know today. As an added layer, you can also gain insight into how a new generation of architects intends to contribute to Denmark today and the sustainable society of the future.

You can never have too many coffee shops on your list, and I'm personally happy that there's another great place to get your morning coffee. Båden is a brand new café and coffee bar in Christianshavn. It's not actually a boat but an old circus wagon, but it's right on the harbour edge, and maybe a circus wagon is just a boat that hasn't learned to float yet. Whatever the café chooses to identify itself as, you can expect coziness on a whole new level and, of course, great coffee.

March 8th is International Women's Day. This year, I want to pay tribute to and admire the world's strong women by seeing an exhibition starring some really tough women. The M/S Maritime Museum is currently hosting the special exhibition "HAENYEO - Women of the Sea", which tells the story of the female free-divers on Jeju Island off the coast of South Korea through photos, films and objects.

Sometimes you just want something specific, and after I was lucky enough to chat briefly with Will King-Smith, the man behind Goldfinch, which opened in December 2022, I've just been craving some top-shelf Cantonese food. So in March, I'll be stuffing my face with dumplings, bao, Dan Dan Noodles and all sorts of other delicious things, and I've seen that they have a rather tempting cocktail menu. You can find me at the high chairs by the kitchen counter!

How far along is the development of the North Harbour? Does Refshaleøens temporary contract affect what the architecture looks like out there? And what should you look out for when cycling along the 42 kilometres of Copenhagen's harbour quay? This month I plan to get to know the architectural innovations along the harbour. Read about the Copenhagen Harbours and check out our Guide to Refshaleøen for trip inspiration. Have an architectural tour!

One exhibition I'm particularly looking forward to visiting in March is the light installation Weaving the Light, which opens on March 26 in the underground art gallery Cisternerne, hidden beneath Søndermarkens ground in Frederiksberg. The exhibition transforms the former water reservoir into an illusory space, where light fills in the dark chambers and creates a unique sea of light. The exhibition was created by South Korean contemporary artist Kimsooja and is an official part of the Capital of Architecture 2023 programme.

In Denmark, we celebrate Fastelavn in February, which is (sort of) the Danish equivalent of Halloween. As the pastry-loving nation we are, we have a traditional pastry for this festive occasion. It's no secret that Copenhagen has some of the most talented players in the Fastelavnsbolle game. Bakeries of all sizes have been coming up with their own creative interpretations of the popular pastry. Over the past few years there's been a fierce competition to create the best Fastelavnsbolle of the year. Are you up for finding your personal favourite? Check out our bakery guide for some of Copenhagen's best bakeries.

Are you tired of dusty old museums where you are not allowed to express your curiosity by touching, or feeling? Fortunately, Experimentarium has a solution. Here it is all about touching, fiddling and playing your way to knowledge. The more curious you are, the better. Right now, Experimentarium has a special exhibition called The Science Behind Pixar, where you can delve into the science behind Pixar's popular and groundbreaking animated films, including Toy Story and Find Nemo.

What better way to unwind after a long day than with a good glass of wine? And even better a good glass of wine and a beautiful view of the charming canals of Copenhagen? Klase Vinbar is located in the neighbourhood of Sydhavnen (The New South Habour) and has the beautiful location on the first parquet of the Copenhagen canal. The people behind Klase Vinbar have a strong passion for wine and offer a wide range of wines from Spain, France and Italy. Check out our guide to find some other of Copenhagen's loveliest wine bars.

February is the month of great cultural experiences, and many museums are opening their doors to new exhibitions this month. One exhibition I'm particularly looking forward to is Refik Anadols: Nature Dreams at ARKEN, just south of Copenhagen. The exhibition is based on the internet and social media's representation of nature, which influences our common idea of what nature is and what nature looks like The exhibition will be open from 10 February to 27 August 2023. Use our guide to get inspired for your next museum experience.

The Copenhagen Light Festival takes place in February and brightens up our otherwise dark days as the winter is getting to an end. This year the festival consists of 35 light installations, and if you want to be part of the light exhibition itself in an even more emerging way, you can take part in the DAC Architecture Run on 17 February. You will be given an LED necklace to wear during the race, and you will thereby be participating in a kind of dynamic light installation that moves through Copenhagen. Read more about the Copenhagen Light festival here.

The popular Hart bakery opened a new location on Holmen in 2021 called Hart Brød+Bar. Half bakery, half wine bar with delicious organic wine. You can enjoy delicious bread and sweet cakes during the day, as you know from the bakery on Gl. Kongevej. While in the evening you can have a glass of organic wine with sourdough bread and a selection of cheeses, meat and fish. On the occasion of our white January, I'm thinking of abstaining from the wine but enjoying the baked goods and the view over to Amalienborg Palace.

There is no better start to the new year than washing away the old year. And why not do it in an outdoor bath with 40-degree hot water, under the open sky, heated with wood in proper Scandinavian style? All this can be experienced at CopenHot out on Refshaleøen, where in the winter season they collaborate with the Mikkeller brewery, and is located right outside the Baghaven bar. In addition to their outdoor baths, they also have saunas and ice baths if it gets too hot. I imagine sitting in one of the outdoor baths, on a cold January evening in snowy weather.

Not more than a 20-minute train ride north from Copenhagen lies The Deer Park. The beautiful nature park is the perfect place for peace and contemplation. It is full of forest areas, small lakes, open plains and as the name suggests a lot of animals, in fact over 2000 wild deer that you are almost guaranteed to come across there. I don't know any better way to relax than a long walk in nature and breathing in some fresh air.

Part of a white January is also to take a step away from the fatty and meaty Christmas food, and give the body some breathing room with some healthy food, for example, vegetarian or vegan. Here, Bistro Lupa is a really good offer, which is one of the many vegetarian and vegan restaurants in Copenhagen. Bistro Lupa makes plant-based food using only local ingredients, they even have their own fungus farm. I'm thinking of trying their "Southern-fried oyster hat" which is a delicious plant-based alternative to fried chicken.

With the start of a new year, it can be nice to have a good overview of things, and why not do it quite literally at the City Hall Tower at Copenhagen City Hall? Here you get well above the rooftops and get a good view of the city. It is always exciting to see one's surroundings from a different angle, and will definitely give rise to reflection.