Copenhagen: The centre of craft beer

By Christian Andersen

Copenhagen-based beer writer, journalist, blogger and author to the pilsner bible ”Den nøgne øl” (”The Naked Beer”)

When you visit Copenhagen, you will have a chance to become a beer expert. Just ask the bartender or the guests in the bar about the beer you’re enjoying, and you can have a lecture for free. And if you happen to be in town October 3 to 11, there is plenty to learn and taste during the annual Copenhagen Beer Week.

In Copenhagen you will find the most picky beer consumers in Europe. Some people will probably characterize the many eager and knowledgeable beer drinkers as spoiled kids. There is a good reason for that.

Copenhagen beer lovers were the first in Europe to embrace the beer revolution coming from the USA, and Copenhagen has gradually developed into the perhaps most interesting beer destination in Europe.

When you go out drinking a beer in e.g. Belgium – world famous for the sweet, fruity and sour beers - it can be difficult to find other beers than Belgian beers. Beer drinkers tend to be patriotic. The same goes for beer drinkers in other renowned beer countries like Germany and The Czech Republic.

In Copenhagen the beer lovers are also patriotic, but they are even more interested in the quality and variety of the beer than the origins of the beer.

There are two giant Copenhagen-based engines, that has formed the beer culture in Denmark and actually also in the rest of the world: Carlsberg and Mikkeller. They are very different – to say the least.

Carlsberg, founded in 1847, is in all respect brewing in the league of Heineken, Budweiser, etc. Mikkeller, founded in 2005, is the core of craft beer revolution.

Somehow Mikkel Borg Bjergsø, the person behind Mikkeller, personifies craft beer – not only in Denmark, but practically in the whole world, where his bars, beers and running clubs (yes, running clubs) are conquering Bangkok, Shanghai, Paris, Berlin, London, Stockholm, etc. Never underestimate a giant. In a funny and paradoxically way Carlsberg has been an instigator for the craft beer movement in Denmark.

The password to the wifi at the first Mikkeller Bar, the bar at Viktoriagade 8B i Copenhagen, was ”I hate Carlsberg” – that sums up the feeling of the small brewers towards the giants.

But Carlsberg was in fact a first-mover. Already in the year 2000 they launched the sub brand Semper Ardens, and the first beer was the Belgian-style Abbey Ale.

At that time in 2000 in the slumbering time of craft beer revolution a few craft beer bars had popped up i Copenhagen and some intelligent importers of beer emerged, but yet no breweries.  

Five years later, Carlsberg made an intelligent and substantial move into the craft beer market with another sub brand, Husbryggeriet Jacobsen, that today is a household name in Denmark.

In Greater Copenhagen there are around 50 craft beer bars, and it can be a challenge to point out the best ones. But why not give it a shot?! Nørrebro and Vesterbro are in constant rivalry about, which district is the kingdom of beer in Copenhagen, so let’s take a look at what’s brewing in these vibrant neighbourhoods. Click below to see the best ones.

The most important thing

In the owerflowing praise of the craft beer bars we must not forget the most import thing about beer in Copenhagen: The breweries. They brew practically all types of beer and not seldom at the higest possible level.

Amager Bryghus must be highlighted.

The brewery situated on the island Amager is a pioneer in the Danish beer revolution and quite a voice internationally. The brewery is still going very strong – just as strong as their beers. Extreme beers are at the core of the assortment, especially hoppy IPA’s, but the ever curious team of brewers is exploring all kinds of beer styles at an unbelievable pace.

BrygBrygBryg is a newcomer, but has a potential to become a new icon. Very productive and inventive. The small scale brewery is known for it’s sour beers and beers with fruit.

Dry & Bitter also excels in… juicy and sweet beers. This brand is both for the hard core beer nerd and the curious beer drinker. The assortment of beers are primarily about IPA, but Dry & Bitter is continuously expanding its range of beers. The latest addition: Pilsner.

Slowburn is perhaps the youngest and trendiest brewing team in Greater Copenhagen – established by an Italian, an American and a Dane. If you crave for the latest trends, look no further than Slowburn. These days Slowburn is mad about pilsner.

Gamma is the Danish undisputed masters of the most hyped beer style these days: NEIPA, New England India Pale Ale. Juicy and hop-infused beers galore is alpha and omega at Gamma.

The next brewery is also flying high in the Danish beer revolution. IPA is at the center of the Flying Couch, but the brewery is also talented in making sours and stouts. You can always find the beers from Flying Couch at the beer bars Ørsted Ølbar and Søernes Ølbar – the owner of the bars is a co-founder of Flying Couch.