Christmas in Copenhagen

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Press Information
June 2008

Traditional Christmas in Copenhagen

Copenhagen is a Christmas city, not just because Greenland (part of Denmark) is the home of the 'Julemand' (Santa) and Denmark the home of the Christmas stamp (and indeed it is), but because this holiday is the most eagerly anticipated by all Danes who have passed down its simple pleasures and traditions from generation to generation.

Tivoli Christmas Market
From Town Hall Square, follow Vesterbrogade to Tivoli itself. (The 2007 Xmas market is from 16 November and continues until 30 December with a short break 24 and 25 December) In Tivoli, walkways greet you with gaily painted booths selling small gift items and souvenirs (your best bets are the Danish handicrafts and foods). Pony rides and other amusements are available for children and you can admire a colouful light show on a part of the Tivoli Lake. The atmosphere is much like that of a small carnival, filled with the pungent smells of funnel cakes and glögg and the strains of familiar holiday songs. Linger over a traditional meal or indulge in a quick pick-me-up at one of its restaurants - try Michelin starred The Paul, Café Ketchup, Fregatten or Ultimo. 

The Crazy Christmas Cabaret show at Tivoii's Glasssal is on in November and December (the 2008 title is: Hamlet's Private Dick - The Case of the Great Dane).

Christmas comes to Nyhavn - the picturesque canal filled with moored sailing boats. From November 16 until December 22 Nyhavn will be full of yuletide with a Christmas Market, booths selling souvenirs, apple dumplings, glögg and foods. On 17 November between 1 and 3 pm, ten breweries will be giving out samples of this year's Yule brew accompanied by a band playing traditional jazz by the memorial anchor. Around the corner...

At Havnegade Christmas Market by Custom House quay you can get into the real Christmas spirit listening to gospel singing, you can order organic ducks, buy Christmas delicacies and organic Christmas trees from the last weekend in November and the following weekends leading up to Christmas.   

Another traditional market is in the Grey Hall at Christiania, the alternative hippie district. Unusual and unique handmade products are on sale from 10 to 20 December.

To see one of Europe's most walkable cities at its holiday best, start out at Kongens Nytorv. On the square stands the venerable d'Angleterre Hotel, gracefully decorated inside and out to evoke an old-fashioned Christmas.  The Bang & Olufsen world of sound and vision flagship store is located on Kongens Nytorv as is the Royal Theatre, scene of holiday-inspired productions by the Royal Danish Ballet. In 2007 it is the ballet The Nutcracker with music by Tchaikowsky.

Get energized
Next door to the d'Angleterre Hotel, Hviids Vinstue has been serving libations to locals since 1723. As historic and evocative a place as you'll find in Copenhagen, its leaded-glass windows, dark beams, time-worn wooden tables (and bartenders), and photos yellowed over the years attract old and young patrons alike. Traditional holiday drinks include glögg, a potent combination of hot red wine, aquavit, cinnamon, cloves, raisins, and slivers of almonds (the best glögg in town is served at Hviid's) and Tuborg and Carlsberg's specially brewed, dark, and strong Julebryg, or Yule brew. On Friday, 2 November 08:59 pm the Yule brew is delivered in horse-drawn wagons decked out with garlands and Danish flags, with Santa-capped staff handing out free samples in a selection of local cafés, bars, etc.

If you need more energy, the city's restaurants feature menus with traditional Danish holiday foods: glazed ham, pork, or delightfully lean Danish duck served with red cabbage, prunes and small glazed potatoes, accompanied by a dessert called Ris a l'amande (it's like a rice pudding with a good-luck almond inside, topped with warm cherry sauce).

Just outside Copenhagen
Jette Frölich, Danish designer, who has made decorations for Royal Copenhagen Porcelain for many years, presents her Christmas Design 2007 at Gammel Holtegård, 170 Attemosevej in Holte.
www.jettefroelich.dk

North of Copenhagen, about 45 minute's drive, is Fuglebjergaard an organic farm where a Christmas market takes place one weekend in early December. Apart from offering organic products for sale, visitors are shown how to prepare home made Danish Christmas specialties.
www.fuglebjerggaard.dk

Go shopping
Are you more in the mood for shopping, start off at the department store Magasin where you'll find a fine selection of Christmas decorations in the King Hans Room on the first floor..

Next catch Strøget and explore the most elegant end of this famous, mile-long pedestrian thoroughfare, festive with holiday garlands in swatches of green trimmed in tiny lights with a big red heart at the center. These garlands are made out of genuine fir twigs, not plastic!  A true Danish design gift, reasonably priced, for yourself or your beloved would be a Bodum. In the four storey Bodum House you may pick from a big selection of every thing from stationary to laundry baskets.  On your way up Strøget to the Illum department store's Christmas shop (on the fourth floor, filled with myriad gift and decoration selections) you'll be tempted by international brand stores as Cerutti, Gucci and Hermés.

Royal Copenhagen Christmas Tables
At Amagertorv (Amager Square) with its lyrical Stork Fountain, stands the Royal Copenhagen complex:  The George Jensen Silver Flagship store and Illums Bolighus make out an architectural triumvirate of seventeenth-century houses together with modern incarnations of the Danish architect Torsten Thorup filled with indelibly beautiful designs in silver, porcelain, and crystal, and connected by internal walkways.

This is the place to purchase a Bing & Grøndahl Christmas plate or a specially designed (but not expensive) holiday dessert spoon and fork, a Danish tradition since 1910. 

Every year elaborate, beautifully laid out Christmas tables are on display on the first floor with a new theme each year. The tradition began in 1963 and is very popular. In 2007 it will be from 22 November to 30 December and the theme is "The Christmas of Artists". Royal Copenhagen's own, in-house designers have each set a table using George Jensen silverware, Holmegaard crystal and Royal Copenhagen porcelain.  

In the basement 'seconds' are sold for 20 to 50 percent below the retail price, a true value and an opportunity to stock up on gifts that will be treasured for years to come. The new Royal Café facing a small cobble stoned courtyard with an open air Christmas market serves traditional holiday sweets, such as brunkager, crisp, flat ginger cookies, ideal with a steaming cup of hot chocolate or glögg. 

Exclusive Decorations for the Christmas Tree
At the Illums Bolighus, the center for Danish design, is its country-themed Christmas Store, with ornament-laden baskets, miniature crystals trees, near-life-size straw animals, and special decorations created by Danish artist Jette Frölich.

Walk off Strøget
Now Strøget is getting crowded with shoppers mainly looking for clothes, so if you are in for a more quiet walk and a unique gift, make your way one block south to Strædet and explore the antique shops lining it. Nearby, at Ny Vestergade 10, the National Museum (admission free) has a large gift shop filled with toys; replicas of Viking jewellery in silver, gold, and bronze; amber jewellery; models of castles, Medieval villages, Viking objects and Viking ships.

Catch up at the City Hall Square
Almost at the end of your Copenhagen Christmas walk, a lone evergreen, decorated with white lights and woven paper hearts, dominates the sweeping City Hall Square. At the Boghallen bookstore in the Politiken building nearby, you can also pick up a volume of the complete fairy tales of Hans Christian Andersen for that special child on your holiday list.

And finally, don't overlook a particulary rich source of gifts and Danish treasures - and possibly surprising, if you're a first-timer to this part of the world; Copenhagen Airport. Its shops offer an impressive array of holiday shopping possibilities - everything including designer perfumes, George Jensen and Royal Copenhagen items, LEGO blocks, cuddly down comforters, and even Yule Beer.