Press feature
March 2010

Copenhagen: Scandinavia's Gastronomic Capital

Seasoned visitors to Copenhagen have known it for years, but the news that the latest Michelin Guide has awarded thirteen stars, more than Rome, Milan, Amsterdam and Vienna and the same amount as Madrid and Berlin, to the city's restaurants, has confirmed that Copenhagen continues as the number one food-lover's destination in Scandinavia.

The 2010 edition of the renowned foody's bible, the French Michelin Guide, has awarded a total of thirteen stars to Copenhagen restaurants, which means that the city now boasts more Michelin stars than any other city in Scandinavia.

Michelin stars Danish cuisine as a whole has changed radically over the past twenty years, blending southern European influences with the richness of Denmark's natural produce, such as its traditionally excellent dairy produce, its quality, organic fruit and vegetables and, of course, the raw ingredients from its surrounding waters. This change has been led by Copenhagen's restaurants, which, over the last decade in particular, have begun to be recognised by top food writers, gourmets and gourmands from around the world.

The new Michelin-starred restaurants are smaller and owned by younger people who work in the kitchens themselves or as waiters.

Restaurants with Michelin stars are:

Noma based in a converted 19th century warehouse beside the harbour in Christianshavn was awarded the position of the worlds 3 best restaurant in 2009. With the experience of working in some of the world's finest restaurants (including The French Laundry in California; El Bulli in Spain), Noma's chef, René Redzepi, has returned to Copenhagen where he now blends the most exciting contemporary techniques with the finest Nordic ingredients sourced from as far away as Iceland, the Faroe Islands and Greenland. In 2005 Noma achieved their first star, and in 2007 a second star was added.

Restaurant Herman received its first star in 2oo9. Chef Thomas Herman has created an original interpretation of traditional Danish cuisine featuring Danish classics like "Burning Love" and "Shooting Star" - but be prepared for a radical and affectionate interpretation!

Kokkeriet a charming place located near the yellow row houses of Nyboder from the 1600's won back the star in 2009 that they had originally been awarded in 2006. They have small intimate tables and a room in the back for 25 people at an impressive table. The kitchen can be defined as modern European, flavoured with Danish finesse and old traditions.

The Paul in Tivoli, named after and run by Paul Cunningham. His culinary ambition is to offer guests an intense gastronomic experience, and with a CV that includes stints at some of Denmark's most renowned temples of gastronomy - including Søllerød Kro - that is guaranteed every time you dine there.

Formel B, a highly acclaimed Modern Scandinavian restaurant in the Frederiksberg area of town, is the city's third restaurant to win a new star in 2006. The restaurant's six-course menu ranks among the very best in Copenhagen, if not Scandinavia, as does its simple but luxurious interior.

Furthermore you have Kong Hans, a modern Franco-Danish cellar restaurant housed in one of the city's oldest buildings

Era Ora's multi-course feasts, and meticulous attention to detail (they fly in ingredients fresh from Umbria weekly) are legendary on the Copenhagen culinary scene.

Chef Mads Refslund has worked his way up via The Paul, Noma and Kokkeriet and opened his own restaurant MR in 2009. The three key words for his cuisine are fish, sea food and vegetables. Fishermen from Jutland deliver fresh fish and the seafood comes directly from Greenland. MR was classified as a "Rising Star" in the 2006 edition of the Michelin Guide and in 2007 achieved its first star.

Close to Sankt Hans Torv in Guldbergsgade and opened in September 2006 is the gourmet restaurant KiinKiin (in Thailand this means ‘eat eat' or ‘come-and-eat' and is heard all over at mealtime). In the 2007 edition of the Michelin Guide Kiin Kiin got ‘rising star' and in 2009 a star. From the restaurant there is a beautiful view over the Jewish Cemetery and the interior has been put in the hands of the group Panta from Bangkok, especially known for their organically formed furniture of bamboo and water hyacinth.

Bo Bech runs Restaurant Paustian and, apart from the title of chef on his business card, he would be right in adding inventor and alchemist. The magic that comes from his kitchen is such that even a blasé food critic is impressed. In 2009 he opened his own organic bakery downtown , Bo Bech Bakery. His motto is - one door, one table and one bread.

Outside of the city, Søllerød Kro, a historic coaching inn to the north of Copenhagen in Holte, is known for the unfussy, peerless quality cooking of chef Jakob de Neergaard. In 2007 Søllerød Kro was bestowed its first star.

With a vaulted ceiling beneath the Moltkes Palæ you will find AOC with Ronny Emborg, cook of the year in 2007, at the helm. The chairs are from GUBI and the general design unique. They received their first star in 2010.

Other restaurants of high esteem:

Once again top chef René Warn is back in the restaurant saddle with a successful bistro concept, the Sorte Hest. From an open kitchen he prepares dishes of high quality ingredients with rustic simplicity based on traditional Danish cuisine.

NIMB's former grandeur has now been revived at the legendary Tivoli address. The key word for Tivoli's ambitious transformation of NIMB is quality - both in architectural expression, in furniture, and in everything that NIMB produces. The building has undergone extensive renovation to restore the famous facade facing Tivoli to its original appearance from 1908. May 2008 saw the opening of a brasserie and a Michelin starred gourmet restaurant, Restaurant Herman. Restaurant Herman is dedicated to Danish classics like "Burning Love" and "Shooting Star" - but be prepared for a radical and affectionate interpretation! In the more informal brasserie, Nimb Restaurant, the kitchen is the restaurant, you sit next to the chef and your meal is prepared virtually under your nose; no obscure tricks, no shortcuts. In November 2009 the world famous bakery Andersen Bakery will establish a bakery and cafe in NIMB. NIMB is also a charming all suite hotel with 13 rooms, all under one roof. All dairy products are produced in their own in-house dairy and in the basement the Vinotek offers more than 30 wines by the glass with 1000 wines on display.

In the Frederiksberg Have Park a romantic choice is Restaurant Mielcke & Hurtigkarl that opened August 2008 Located in orange painted buildings from the 1700's you take a step back a couple of centuries. The interior has stucco ceilings and a covered terrace overlooking the park, where, weather permitting, meals are served. The two owners are Jakob Mielcke and Jan Hurtigkarl who inspired from their travels brought back ingredients and ideas from around the world. Cockroaches, pollen, beetles, weeds and wild plants are the essential motifs in the wall piece of the restaurant. An auditory rendering of the earth from core to atmosphere has been created using tectonic rumbling, gurgling waters, thunder, rain and insects tickling across the forest floor. To eliminate noise pollution between tables sound barriers have been set up on the walls and ceilings. A specially made crystal chandelier hangs in the middle of the restaurant with a hurricane like vortex shape that sucks the surrounding nature of the gardens into the premises. The lighting changes significantly during the course of a day through the natural movement of the sun aided by digital programming of many different lighting effects. - But of course it's all about the food, a unique cuisine garnered from inspirational travels and developed by culinary experts with nature as its focus. By the way - don't forget to check out their state of the art restrooms!

Also in the area Frederiksberg is Mêlèe that opened in December 2009. Chef Jens Vestergaard formerly of Ensemble and Luns is now back in Copenhagen after an inspiring year in Paris. The restaurant's name originates from the sport of rugby. They serve four to five different starters and main dishes with several desserts and cheeses, in an area of only 90 square meters with room for 30 guests.

Restaurationen is another lavish French kitchen in the city centre, where Bo Jacobsen has reigned in the kitchen for decades.

Krogs Seafood Restaurant has been synonymous with the best in seafood since 1910. Situated at Gammel Strand in the heart of Copenhagen, which has been a harbour and fish market since the middle-ages. A connoisseur of culinary excellence and modern art, Morten Avlskarl bought the restaurant in 2004 and has continued developing this tradition creating a unique juxtaposition of old and new. Aquatic delicacies like Danish Limfjord oysters that are considered the world's best and glazed monkfish are to be found on the menu served in an atmosphere of tradition and garnished with the works of some of the foremost Northern European artists.

At restaurant Saison, at Park Hotel in Hellerup, chef and cookery author Erwin Lauterback takes special care to help ensure that the fat content of dishes is as low as possible, and that all ingredients are healthy and to a great extent organic. Erwin Lauterback is renowned among the new upcoming chefs as a sauce master.

Delis

The district of Frederiksberg can now boast a 'deli' inspired from abroad. Claus Meyer has opened Meyer's Deli, a combination of informal restaurant/grocery/coffe bar and take-away on Gammel Kongevej. Meyer's Deli has another outlet at Kongens Nytorv in the department store of Magasin and at near-by Kongens Have (King's Garden).

‘Emmerys' has for years been synonymous with excellent, organic bread sold from 10 shops around town. Prepared without yeast, without sugar and without fat. Now following the same concept Emmeryskøkken has opened in Hellerup. The simple and natural gastronomic dishes are served in the restaurant or are sold as take away.

The Løgismose delicatessen, actually a gastronomic supermarket, offers fine wines, organic delicacies and specially made chocolates among other things. It is owned by the family involved in Restaurant Kong Hans and Nimb.

In what was originally a butcher's shop, Gourmandiet, in the district of Østerbro, specializes in quality organic meat and organic accompaniments such as chocolate, wines, müsli and mustard. You can also purchase prepared dishes including soups and desserts. A weekly menu is offered as takeaway, or as of 2009 you may enjoy it in house. Under the ceiling of the surrounding walls is a mural from 1902 showing the cow's way from meadow to table and nearby you will find tables, a fireplace and chairs strewn with furs.

In the district of Frederiksberg, Egefeld Økologiske Supermarked is Copenhagen's first organic super market.

Copenhagen Cooking, the annual food festival that started in 2005, takes place at the end of August. Participants get the chance to sample a gourmet meal in a luxury restaurant at a fraction of the normal price. There are numerous outdoor stalls with edible specialities. A gigantic crayfish party has hundreds of participants, and you get to meet the food producers and participate in many other activities: www.copenhagencooking.com August 20 - 29 / 2010

Torvehallerne will finally be a reality in 2011 after more than 15 years of ongoing debate. At Israels Plads plans are that an approximately 7000 square meter area with granite paving will become Copenhagens vegetable and flower market. Torvehallerne will be made up of stalls 12,5, 25, 37,5 up to maximum 50 sq. meters to make sure that the stall owners will be mainly small, quality conscious producers of foodstuffs. There will be linden trees surrounding the outdoor stalls and around the lit columns of the steel constructions.

Restaurants in Copenhagen awarded stars by the Michelin Guide 2010

Other places mentioned

Delis