Press Feature
September 2010   

Eat with the In-crowd

The Restaurant Revolution
in the mid-nineties, Copenhagen's restaurant and café scene underwent a dramatic transformation. Leading the charge in this modern Scandinavian revolution was Torben Olsen, owner of Café Victor, Dan Turells, Café Sommersko, Ultimo, Quote (situated on the exclusive Kongens Nytorv Square) and Bistro Boheme, situated in the royal and financial district, open from breakfast to supper. An innovation is Bistro Boheme's wine-o-tec, where apart from the wines on the list it is possible to buy 32 different wines by the glass. Olsen's restaurants and cafés made their name not just for their new interpretations of Danish cooking, which were often imaginatively married with international styles, but for their creative decor and stylish clientele.

The New Generation
Three of Olsen's employees have gone on to create several of the city's best restaurants. Nicknamed `the Olsen Gang´, they began by opening Restaurant Olsen named after their old boss. Now there is Restaurant Sult located in The Danish Film Institute (Filmhuset), and named after the novel by the world-famous writer Knut Hamsun. The elegant setting will remind you of a modern New York restaurant. In 2009 they renovated Café A' Porta on Kongens Nytorv, one of Copenhagen's original cafés. Many famous persons were patrons, among them Hans Christian Andersen, who lived on the top floor and occasionally ordered take-away. The café has preserved its classic Vienna-style-interior, but the Olsen Brothers' vouch for a modern, quality menu. In April 2010 Jakob Blom and Kristian Willumsen of the `the Olsen Gang´ opened B&W Gastropub named for Blom & Willumsen situated in the same building where H.C Andersen usually ate dinner and right across from the K Bar.

A group of restaurants that have become immensely popular were started by Torben Klitbo who originally trained with "the Olsen Gang". Cofoco Restaurant (short for Copenhagen Food Company). At their first restaurant Cofoco (2004) followed by Les Trois Cochons in 2005, you can order a three course meal for DKK 275, at Auberge (2006), a deluxe version of a three to six course menu goes for up to DKK 500. Vespa (2008) serves a five course meal of Mediterranean cuisine every Friday and Saturday that costs DKK 300, with a 50 crown discount Monday through Thursday. Scarpetta (2009) offers a five course Italian menu of the day for DKK 275. In April 2010 they opened a gastropub by the name of Public House Gastropub in the Hotel Kong Frederik, serving both lunch and dinner. Pub's in England were originally called `Public Houses´ and Gastropub continues the tradition with a modern twist

Anders Aagaard who began at Cofoco, started Madklubben and trained in Switzerland and London. At Madklubben a three course menu is offered at DKK 200. In 2009 the people behind the popular restaurant Madklubben opened their second restaurant Tony's, a New York-Italian style restaurant right across from Custom House, in January 2010 they opened their third Állo Állo!, an old school French bistro and in March 2010 they opened their first steak house Madklubben Steak that serves classic American steaks and Nordic side dishes, a three course meal for 300DKK.

In the still active meatpacking district in Vesterbro, in what was formerly a slaughter house, art food and cocktails have been united in a unique, experimental café/restaurant/bar named Karriere that's open in the weekend. New artworks by leading international artists define the design and functions of the place. Guests are challenged with spectacular light objects (Olafur Eliasson), the bar counter slowly moving from side to side (Jeppe Hein), a sculpture made of a two way mirror alternating with perforated stainless steel on the square in front of Karriere (Dan Graham) etc. Karriere provides a new take on art in public with an emphasis on experience and communication through direct involvement with art. The context of the café/restaurant/bar is an informal and socially relaxed setting for the experience of art, as an alternative to museums. They serve dinner with a kitchen based on organic products. Transforming into a cocktail bar at night featuring concerts, djs, artist talks and performances. Jeppe Hein, the boldly advancing Danish artist, and his sister restaurateur Lærke Hein are the driving forces behind Karriere.

An organic restaurant that seats 200 guests, named Bio Mio, opened in the meat packing district in February 2009. The minute you step into Bio Mio they give you a menu. You order directly from the chef who's situated in the center of the room in an open kitchen, where you are able to watch him prepare your meal. Ecological awareness in the kitchen spreads to the rest of the restaurant. Ecologically certified woodwork, paraben free soap in the restrooms, induction cooking and of course as the owner Karsten Hoydal states, a very eco-friendly gas and electric policy.

Paté Paté, next door to BioMio is a wine bar, restaurant, tapas café, coffee oasis and delicatessen that open in August 2009. The owners saw some old drawings of the building and realized that it had once been a liver paté factory, hence the name Paté Paté. Kødbyens Fiskebar opened June 2009 and is a lively hang out with seating for 100 inside and 60 - 80 chairs outside where you can sit in the sun throughout the long Nordic summer evenings. The décor is a little rough with room for 14 at the bar where the chef opens oysters, serves razor shell scallops and other raw delights. They also have seating for 8 around a jellyfish aquarium buying fresh seafood directly from local Danish fishermen.

NIMB's former grandeur has now been revived at the legendary Tivoli address. The key word for Tivoli's ambitious transformation of NIMB is quality - both in architectural expression, in furniture, and in everything that NIMB produces. The building has undergone extensive renovation to restore the famous facade facing Tivoli to its original appearance from 1908. May 2008 saw the opening of a brasserie and a Michelin starred gourmet restaurant, Restaurant Herman. Restaurant Herman is dedicated to Danish classics like "Burning Love" and "Shooting Star" - but be prepared for a radical and affectionate interpretation! In the more informal brasserie, Nimb Restaurant, the kitchen is the restaurant. You sit next to the chef and your meal is prepared virtually under your nose; no obscure tricks, no shortcuts. In 2009 the world famous bakery Andersen Bakery established a bakery and cafe in NIMB and at the same time a gourmet hotdog booth with homemade ketchup, cantarell remoulade and bread from their own bakery. NIMB is also a charming all suite hotel with 13 rooms, all under one roof and in the basement the Vinotek offers more than 30 wines by the glass with 1000 wines on display.

In The JapaneseTower that has been a part of Tivoli since 1900 a new restaurant will open in June 2010. A pan-Asiatic culinary concept serving sushi, wok-and wagyumeat. The main menu is based on sushi that is not otherwise found in Tivoli. They will serve western style sushi with a Danish twist featuring among other creations fjord shrimp sushi. Guests will experience a modern Asian kitchen with Asiatic decor. 

In the middle of Kongens Have (the Kings Garden) one of Copenhagen's oldest and most beautiful parks, in an elegant white pavilion you will find Orangeriet, that opened in spring 2010 a mixture of tradition and innovation. The chef Jasper Kure has worked at many top restaurants in Denmark and in 2008 he received silver in Bocuser d´or Europe. He features a classic menu with a modern twist, fresh herbs bringing the garden into the restaurant. Lunch and dinner are available on the terrace, the weather permitting.

A newcomer among the in spots is Hotel Twentyseven in Løngangsstræde 27 - hence the name. Just check in with one of the Live Life-packages; enjoy life in The Wine Room, experience food and wine from all over the world; enjoy classical and molecular drinks served in the Honey Ryder Cocktail Lounge and get a cool experience in the Absolut Icebar Copenhagen, built uniquely with ice from the Torne-river in Lapland. Even the restrooms are designed to give you an extraordinary experience!

Conran now in Copenhagen
Directly on the waterfront, in what used to be a hydrofoil-boat-terminal, a new restaurant palace with three restaurants, two bars, a delicatessen and a bakery opened in November 2006. The building dates back to 1937 and is built in a distinct functionalistic ‘jazz-modern' style. This is a gastronomic lifestyle temple of the kind that Sir Terence Conran has opened quite a number in London since the 1990's. Custom House at Havnegade 44 consists of: Ebiso - Japanese grill and sushi bar Bacino - Italian fine restaurant and Bar & Grill, all European, modern Conran brasserie, with brunch, burger and bouillabaisse, but also Danish/Scandinavian inspiration on the menu.

Madeleines, a Gastronautical Experience.
In the old Tuborg factory in Copenhagen's Islands Brygge neighbourhood, the brainchild of theatre/production designer, Nikolaj Danielsen and culinary doyen Mette Sia Martinussen (restaurant 1.TH) has come to life. Madeleines is about the meal as theatre, stimulating every sense in order to amplify the event of eating. Each three-hour dining performance is centred on a concept developed in conjunction with a creative board of experts including a psychotherapist, an installation artist and a musician amongst others. Tickets cost DKK 1.250, and advance booking is necessary through www.billetnet.dk.

The creative partnership behind Madeleine's has already spawned 1.th, a restaurant located in a first floor flat in central Copenhagen, in which a dinner party is staged to make diners feel like exclusive guests.

Also worth mentioning is Plaza Library Bar - a stately, wood-panelled library bar similar to a London gentleman´s club and was voted by Forbes Magazine one of the ten best of its kind in the world. Saturday live jazz from 10pm.

East meets West 

In The Japanese Tower that has been a part of Tivoli since 1900 a newly renovated restaurant opened in June 2010. A pan-Asiatic culinary concept serving fjord shrimp sushi, lemon marinated mussels, truffle -teriyaki, Waguy Beef and Hong Kong Wok among other dishes. The main menu is based on sushi that is not otherwise found in Tivoli. They serve western style sushi with a Danish Guests will experience a modern Asian kitchen with Asiatic decor.

Close to Sankt Hans Torv in Guldbergsgade and opened in September 2006 is the gourmet restaurant KiinKiin (in Thailand this means ‘eat eat' or ‘come-and-eat' and is heard all over at mealtime). From the restaurant there is a beautiful view over the Jewish Cemetery and the interior has been put in the hands of the group Panta from Bangkok, especially known for their organically formed furniture of bamboo and water hyacinth. They opened an Asian bistro with classic Asian dishes and a four course menu the Rice Market in 2008, and in September 2009 a Chinese restaurant with the name of Dim Sum, serving dim sun won ton dumplings and with a wine menu with 50 different types of champagne and chardonnay and an extensive selection of teas. There are no tables only one long bar with room for 20 people. In China bad acoustics, noise and amplifiers are a part of the experience so at Dim Sum you can see the kitchen and even hear the washing machine at times. Henrik Yde has even designed a new beer brewed by Mikkeler.

In May 2005 Umami, the funkiest restaurant Copenhagen has seen in many years, opened. The food is Japanese, Orbit, the design firm has done the interior decorating and there is room for 150 guests. On the ground floor you can enjoy a Kirin beer or a martini of gin & lemon grass infused saké while listening to lounge- and jazz music. Or you can go upstairs into the non smoking sushi bar or onto the first floor restaurant with hot Japanese dishes blended with a touch of French cuisine.

The people behind Umami opened MASH (Modern American Steak House) April 2009, moving from the high gastronomic sphere back to basic steak, lobster and drinks. Designers from the London firm Orbit, that also decorated Umami, have created a modern steak house of two floors where the primary restaurant is on the ground floor, where once there had been an art gallery, with an enormous bar where people can sit and eat. In May 2010 they opened another MASH in north Sealand.

For further information about restaurants in other town areas, please check out the press releases: ‘Red hot trendy spot' (about Vesterbro) and ‘Hot Spot Nørrebro'. Both on www.visitcopenhagen.com/press